27.4 km / 17 miles – 3000 feet elevation gain
Today was a better day, but it was also a very hard day. I had great weather from start to finish. The forecasted rain and thunderstorms only ended being a light sprinkle – far more refreshing than annoying for a day like today.
The hard part was the hills. I knew they’d be there but I wasn’t mentally prepared for all of them. The path climbed to two or even three high points of mountains today. And what goes up, must come down. My feet felt like they were going to fall off, but then I climbed the last steep hill to my albergue. It’s probably the nicest albergue I’ve ever stayed in. Absolutely adorable and my bed (lower bunk) even comes with real sheets instead of the disposable ones albergues usually offer. Andrea the host is super nice. I even met some ladies from Idaho on the steep climb to the albergue that are also staying there.

While the walk ended up being challenging for the last 5 miles, I had no complaints about the beauty it offered. And the cows…still waiting for my mom to get a cow for the family farm in Idaho. Perhaps if she’d seen all the faces of the many baby cows or their mamas I’ve seen on this walk, she’d be convinced.


Leaving Tineo was really beautiful with the sunrise and low clouds. It was hard to keep walking as I wanted to stop every few feet to take pictures. There was still mud to navigate but not nearly as bad as yesterday.











So this is one of the lesser populated routes of the main Camino paths, and today I definitely felt that. Other than meeting some Australian pilgrims for a few steps and regularly passing or getting passed by a Brazilian father and son, I didn’t have anyone to talk to on today’s walk. I also think some of the folks I’ve been seeing daily stopped a few towns back today. The guidebook I have suggested a 9ish mile day. My legs probably wish I listened to the guidebook. Oh well.











After getting checked into my albergue, where I got a hand colored stamp, I headed to the nearest bar for one of the biggest burgers I’ve ever eaten. Tomorrow won’t have any options for food or drinks, including potable fountains, for 18km so I need to plan this evening for what I might need on the hike up the big mountain. It’s said to be the most difficult day of walking on this Camino. 😳


And here’s one more cow of the day trying to play peekaboo with me…

Glad to see that the day went better. Gorgeous photos, and we’ll get a cow if you come home and take care of it. Howz that sound??? 🙂
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I’m pretty sure you’d enjoy a cow if you got one!
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I can see why this is called CAMINO PRIMITIVO. Your day 4 was certainly challenging with RAIN, BLISTER, HILLS and Dog. Your Photos are none the less SPECTACULAR❣️ Thank you for Sharing your Adventure.
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Definitely challenging! But I’m enjoying it!
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Beautiful pictures….worth to do this hard hike! Hugs from Germany
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Thank you!
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