I left my nice albergue (pictured above) later than I had planned on today. It felt nice just taking my time this morning, especially knowing today was about the same distance as yesterday. I also decided that I’m going to spring for hotels sprinkled throughout this walk and I got one in Pamplona for tonight. I’ll mostly stay in albergues, but every now and then it’s nice to have your own room, your own shower, and no one else snoring or turning lights on and off at random times.
Leaving early meant not getting to see much of sunrise and also meant it warmed up a bit quicker. Luckily there was a nice breeze today. Breaks came a little fewer than I anticipated, so my first break was about 9km into the walk. This is where I introduced an Australian to amazingness of Aquarius – a really good electrolyte drink that I fell in love with in Japan. It’s the perfect thirst quencher on the Camino.
Usually approaching a bigger city means you see a bit more of the industrial parts as you approach the city. There was a bit of that today, but then there were some nice sections as well. My favorite part was walking through the woods alongside a small river. Pamplona is a nice city to visit so it was also fun once I hit the edge of the city.
I’m currently waiting on some spaghetti bolognese while sitting in the main plaza of Pamplona. This plaza is just a block off from the famous running of the bulls route. I’ll do some exploring around Pamplona after eating my late lunch. I also have a plan to get a drink with Hemingway at Cafe Iruña later – a famous bar because he used to drink there.
A shorter day today. But as I’ve learned on past Caminos, the shorter days can sometimes feel longer than the longer days. Though I’d say only parts of today felt longer. I haven’t been doing quite the research that I have in the past on what the next day will bring. I made the mistake of only quickly looking at a chart that showed fairly low elevation gain (mostly losses) for today – but that chart was in meters, and my brain wanted to think in feet. My legs, in their soreness from yesterday, certainly wanted to think in feet too! I felt every one of those meters today.
The famous sign when you’re still nearly 800km out from Santiago.
Walking this late in the summer means shorter days – so starting in the dark. It was the absolute perfect temperature when I left Roncesvalles today. A nice easy walk through a beautiful forest. The sun started to rise when I got to some openings with cattle fields. Through some bushes I could see a mother cow and her brand new baby cow – guessing it was born over night. It was so cute! Wish mama wasn’t keeping the baby cow so hidden so I could have gotten some photos.
This little one tried to play hide and seek with me. I won.
Today was back to the normal Camino style day. Instead of just climbing high mountains and limited resources, there were plenty of cute towns and bars or cafes to stop at. I made three stops today. I definitely felt dehydrated from yesterday so I needed those stops for hydration. Why drink boring water from your own water bottle when you can sit down for a few minutes for Coke Zero, Aquarius (electrolyte drink) or a beer?
While I’ve exchanged quick pleasantries with many folks, I’ve only had conversations with a handful of pilgrims so far. Two were from the US (including one from Idaho) and a few from Korea. The thing I always find is that the smiles and quick “hola” or “Buen Camino” you exchange with the same folks multiple times will eventually become so familiar that you find you are just new friends. It’s such a welcoming environment. Language might be a barrier sometimes, but usually not speaking a common language changes anything. I think that’s something that keeps bringing me back to the Camino. While politics these days has become so divisive and some issues that shouldn’t become political have become political, it’s been harder to find the kindness in strangers. It’s been harder to find common ground with those you may not agree with. But that kindness and common ground still lives on the Camino.
As I’m sitting at a cafe with a beer to write this, and I’m getting to overhear a group pilgrims talking about the differences of things like the metric vs imperial system, as the group seems to come from Ireland, Canada, the US and Germany. They seem to be a group of guys that have started finding a common bond over the past couple days and they’re spending time sharing with and listening to each other with all the differences they may have. I love seeing this, because this is the Camino.
Zubiri is a small town, with a river you cross to get into town. I found an albergue right next to the bridge where I’m only sharing a room with three others. There’s a view of the river from my room, so no complaints there. Tomorrow will be a slightly shorter day to Pamplona. Last Camino Frances I only walked through Pamplona and didn’t stay there. Just like I didn’t stay in Zubiri last time either. One goal I have this Camino is to try to stay in some different cities or towns. Since the path isn’t new to me, I want to try to stay in at least a few different places to help change it up.
Also the best thing about having a river just outside my albergue, means my feet get the royal treatment of recovery!
Today was hard, but absolutely beautiful so it was worth every grueling step. It’s just like I remember from the first time around. The uphills seem to never stop appearing around every corner. Last time I had trained well for the Camino, and it was hard then.
This day on the Frances is one of the best for views. Don’t get me wrong, the stunning views will continue, but the Pyrenees are down right magical to walk through.
Your path often gets crossed by cows, sheep and horses. I saw all three crossing the road in front of me. The horses being my favorite. Please don’t tell that to all the cows I fell in love with on the Primitivo. 😉 Twice, horses took off running at full speed in front of me. And there were many cute baby horses.
Didn’t have the heart to tell her she was going the wrong way on the Camino. 😂
The last horse pictured seemed to enjoy getting pets from pilgrims.
There’s only two businesses to stop at along this part of the Camino. The refuge at Orrison and then a food truck. So it’s not a typical Camino day with first breakfast, second breakfast, lunch and then a last “you’re almost there but need a break” stop. This meant I carried extra water with me. So my pack was a bit heavier than I prefer. Just what one needs when doing the biggest climb. 😃
Can’t beat the views for the stops though.
Anyway, back to the beauty of this day…
There’s not much in Roncesvalles. But I booked my bed reservation with dinner so at 7, I’ll head to one of the two restaurants in town for my pilgrims meal. For now I’m just enjoying a well deserved beer, Coke and some much needed salty chips.
Tomorrow should be a much easier day, aside from soreness from today’s walk. Not to mention having to emotionally get over getting stuck on a top bunk tonight. It’s all just part of the Camino!
This morning started way earlier than I probably needed it to, but that just meant I had plenty of time to explore the very small terminal I flew out of in Paris. The flight was quick and easy, with limited views due to clouds. But flying into Biarritz reminded me that I’d like to actually visit Biarritz sometime.
The drive to Saint Jean Pied de Port
I was the only pilgrim in the shuttle today so that meant I got to pay quite a bit for that ride. It’s only 19 euros per person if the shuttle is full. Luckily my hotel room was ready when I arrived in St. Jean. It’s an adorable studio apartment above a fantastic smelling Italian restaurant. Unfortunately I couldn’t wait on dinner for it to reopen so I’ve settled into a place for steak and fries.
I’ve spent all afternoon wandering and geocaching around St. Jean. It’s just as adorable as I remembered it. I got lucky to arrive today in that there’s a big town festival going on and that includes bands that travel around the city playing basque region music along with some popular hits you might hear your high school marching band play. They seem to be stopping for beers at various bars throughout the day. I’m surprised they’re still able to play so well. Here’s dinner and the band currently playing at the restaurant I’m at…
Another band playing near the church and clock tower in St. Jean.
It’s been enjoyable to watch these bands perform as I’ve wandered through town today. You don’t know what you might hear around the next corner. I know my dad will be thrilled to know each one has at least one tuba or sousaphone as part of the ensemble.
Not only did I find a business with my name on it, I also found pizza and baguette vending machines! Not surprisingly, the pizza machine seemed quite popular. 🍕
Tomorrow will be a tough day with a lot of uphill, but with the weather forecast, I should have some stunning views. With sunrise a bit later now, I’ll likely be leaving St. Jean in the dark. But as I’ve seen pilgrims all over this town, I know I won’t be on The Way alone. I was a bit bummed that the albergue I stayed at here last time is closed on Sundays. Otherwise I know I would be starting tomorrow already knowing a handful of pilgrims.
Even if I’m not fully trained for tomorrow, I’m ready to get started!
Writing this from the train that will take me to my plane, and it means my journey is under way! I have a flight to Paris, after a transfer in Dublin. I’ll stay tomorrow evening near the airport in Paris and early Sunday take off for Biarritz. A shuttle service will pick me up and take me to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port from there. If all goes well, I’ll start walking on Monday.
I always get worried about travel days – especially since I’ve had a Camino flight canceled once before. But luckily I have a built in buffer day where I can adjust if needed. That’s not a luxury I’ve usually had in the past.
No I won’t be wearing flip flops for the whole walk. 😃
Despite the worry of travel working out the way I’ve booked it, I am so excited to spend the next five weeks walking. It’s a comfortable and happy place for me. Since I’m not doing any major exploring tomorrow, my next post will be on Sunday. I’ll plan to post every day of the walk after that. Thank you to everyone for your encouragement and support, and welcome along on my journey!
The Road goes ever on and on, Down from the door where it began. Now far ahead the Road has gone, And I must follow, if I can, Pursuing it with eager feet, Until it joins some larger way Where many paths and errands meet. And whither then? I cannot say.
Things have not slowed down, so I’ve had to rush things together in the middle of a typical busy summertime. I don’t love that, and my anxiety definitely doesn’t love that. But things are coming together. I think I’ve officially finished packing. Sure, things might change in small ways before I fly out, but I could leave right now and have everything I need.
All of this will fit in my pack, or I’ll be wearing it.
The list…
REI 40 liter backpack
REI backpack rain cover
Brooks Divide trail runner shoes
Havaiana Flip flops
Black Diamond trekking poles
Camelbak water bottle
Platypus foldable water bottle
Costco down throw blanket
Lightweight blow up pillow (splurge item)
REI rain jacket
Lightweight hoody jacket
2 pairs of yoga pants
1 pair of hiking shorts
1 skirt
3 pairs of Darn Tough wool running socks
2 quick dry shirts
1 quick dry long sleeve shirt
1 tank top
Ball cap
Lightweight poncho
3-4 pairs of undies
Backpacking quick dry towel
Toiletries including mini shampoo, toothpaste, deodorant, etc.
Fingernail clippers
Fingernail polish (splurge item)
A few bandaids
Advil, Advil PM, Vitamins
Mini toilet paper roll
Two needles with thread
One safety pin
Extra chapstick
Mini sunscreen/face lotion
iPhone
Garmin watch
Small charger for iPhone
Charging cables for iPhone, Garmin watch and battery charger
2 International adapter plugs
USB charger plug with two USB ports (charge two things at once)
Camino Frances guidebook
Camino Credencial
Small carabiner to hang things from backpack
Mini roll of duct tape
Clothes line with clips for drying clothes
1-2 Reusable shopping bags (for storing clothes)
2 organization compartments to separate belongings in pack
Cotopaxi fanny pack
Small wallet for credit cards/ID
Passport
Buff scarf
Sounders FC Scarf (splurge item)
Snacks and energy chews to get me started
Scallop shell
One of the new items I picked up from a local sock shop the other day is two new pairs of socks. That’s one thing I buy new every time. There’s something that feels so great about putting on a new pair of socks. And Darn Tough has been a darn good brand for me. Smartwool is also great, but this time I’ll only have Darn Tough socks with me.
New socks and new credencial.
About a week before the new socks arrived, my new credencial arrived. Looking forward to putting some new memories down via stamps in that when I start walking.
My pack this time will be the same REI pack I used on the Primitivo last year. It’s a bit bigger than most would need, but it’s perfect and very comfortable for me. I also love the bright colors I wear between the pack and my fanny pack.
It’s one week out from starting my walk today. I know I’m not in the best shape for this one, but like my dad said when I left for my first walk, was just to put one foot in front of the other. And that’s just what I’ll do.
Normally when I’ve been about a month out, I’ve published a few more blog posts covering training and packing plans by now. I still hope to include another post or two, but life has been busy. Other travel, a softball team, running Ragnar, etc. has gotten in the way of focusing on my upcoming Camino. But that will need to change as I enter the last month before starting my walk.
I’m still considering what shoes I’ll wear and I’m really down to crunch time on this. I got some new Brooks thanks to a store credit from a previous Christmas present from my dad and I thought they might be perfect. But now I’m starting to think I either need different inserts or potentially different shoes. So that is my focus this week.
Will these be my shoes?
I had forgotten until yesterday that I still needed to order my Credential from the American Pilgrims on the Camino website. You can get the credential many places along the Camino but there’s something fun about getting one in advance from a Camino group I’ve spent some time on training walks with. Hopefully that will arrive soon. I’ll be using that as my “passport” collecting stamps from albergues, cafes and bars I stop at along the way. To me, it’s the tangible token I can always look back on to remember different parts of my journey.
I can’t help but mention that I’ve been fairly delinquent in my training as well. Oops! Sure, I walk 5 miles a day on average – which is great – but I haven’t gotten nearly the amount of hiking in that would help my body get used to the elevation gain that I’ll be challenged with, starting on day 1. Hopefully I’ll get out on a trail this weekend to help with some last minute prep. The one thing I know is that I’m stubborn when I’ve set a goal for myself. So no matter how hard the walking may be, my stubbornness to push through it will keep me on target.
One of the things that’s kept me busy, that does count for training, is running my second Ragnar Relay this past weekend. Over two days I ran/walked about 15 miles as part of my three legs of the relay on our 11 person team (full teams consist of 12 runners that divide up 200 miles of running from Blaine, Washington to Langley, Washington on Whidbey Island). This race was a challenge for me because running has become much harder post having covid. I’m not in the greatest shape, due to the fact that working out has become much more challenging for me. My hope is that this Camino helps me find my strength again and reclaim a part of me that has become so important to me.
Team “You’ve Goat This” at the finish!
Ragnar was hard, but I was so proud of myself for signing up and pushing through some pretty tough legs. Yes, I walked about half, but what was important to me, was that I took every step.
My last mile of the three Ragnar legs
Going through my packing list is also one of the important preparation steps that I’ll try to focus on over the next week. Part of that has become old hat being that this my fifth Camino, but I still don’t want to leave that to the last minute. Hopefully I’ll have my final packing list to share on here soon.
Mentally I’m ready to be back on the Camino. It’s a break I need from the day to day. It’s a body and mind reset that many of us take for granted or unfortunately don’t have the time to take. I feel so fortunate for this opportunity yet again.
If this map looks familiar, it’s because it is. If me talking about walking 500 miles sounds familiar, it’s also because it is. If you go back to my oldest post on this blog, you’ll read about me getting ready to check off a bucket list item back in 2016. You’ll also read that I’m fortunate to have a sabbatical every seven years at my job at Geocaching HQ and that combined with some paid time off gives me enough time to walk the French Way. I’m still at my same job and while I may be taking my sabbatical a few years later than when I qualified for it, I’m now ready to embark on my 5th Camino walk. This will be my second time walking the Camino Frances (French Way).
I thought about trying to come up with a different idea for my sabbatical. Options like spending the entire time traveling New Zealand and hiking new trails every day, finally getting to Kilimanjaro and standing on the top of Africa, or finally making the trek to Everest Base Camp. But between total budget available and considering what I need for my mental and physical health, I ultimately landed on re-walking a walk that changed my life.
I’m not necessarily looking for this walk to change my life again, but instead, to remind me why walking and meeting people from all over the world are important parts of who I am. Reminding myself to step outside my comfort zone and to remember to not judge a book by its cover. It can be so easy to get caught up in the same-same of every day life, the monotony of routine, the settled-in judgement. While I’ve traveled to different parts of the world and have always tried to keep an open mind, few experiences have opened me up as much as walking a Camino has.
The path will be the same, but the time of year will be different. This picture above is from my first walk, which started in late May. Green farm fields, green grass and bright red poppies lined the idyllic path throughout Spain. This time around, these same paths will be surrounded by browns and yellows and harvests coming to fruition. It will be hot and some days may end up downright brutal.
The other and likely more important difference will be the people. It won’t be the same people I’ve walked with before. Many will be on their first ever Camino walk, while some will be like me – returning to the place of their addiction. But all of these people will be new to me and I don’t know yet what kind of impact they may have on me.
I’m looking forward to walking the same road, but this time to a different tune. I know I’m going there alone and my past experiences tell me I’ll leave Santiago with new friends and new lifetime memories to be cherished.
I think about past friends I’ve met on previous walks and part of me thinks going on a new walk means I’m “cheating” on them and our experiences together. But I also know that my life has been enriched so much by each of the new friends I’ve met along every walk. Getting to spend some time with friends I met on the Primitivo recently in their home country of Australia and regularly getting updates from friends from the US, Ireland and Germany via Whatsapp remind me of the benefit of continuing to go on these walks and being open to new experiences and new people.
For this trip, I cashed in an airline credit from a canceled 2020 trip (thanks Covid), and I’ll be headed over to Paris in mid-August for a quick overnight and then on to Biarritz. From there, I’ll take the same shuttle service I used on my first Camino for the hour long drive to St. Jean Pied de Port France. I’ll waste no time and plan to get started the next morning on the 16 mile and 4400 feet elevation gain walk over the Pyrenees Mountains to Roncesvalles. From there, I’ll plan to take the same amount of time as I did on my first walk – 33 days total with two of those being rest days.
Just the same as all my previous walks, I’ll use this blog to add daily posts that include pictures and a quick overview of the day. Leading up to the trip, I’ll include some training posts and as usual, my packing list. The support I’ve received in the past via my daily blog and social media posts has always been so appreciated. I know that I don’t ever walk these walks alone and I’m happy to have you along for the ride!
As with tradition, I just try to enjoy the arrival into Santiago and wait until the celebration and emotions of it have settled to write my last day of walking post. So much goes on when you arrive – the celebration with Camino friends and family – the Compostela – the celebration beers – checking into the hotel and showering – dinner with those that have become so important to you in a short amount of time. There’s just not time to sit down and write about it because you want to live it in that moment.
So on to the last day. Broes from Belgium, Blair from Texas and I had decided to leave at 7am. We probably left a few minutes earlier than that as the last day comes with lots of anticipation. You’re excited to reach the goal but also dealing with the emotions of reaching that goal and having to say goodbye to people who have made a major impact on your journey.
As we were leaving O Pedrouzo, we saw one of the three Pacos (Francisco) we’d met on the way – specifically the one we referred to as Whiskey Paco. I had dinner with him and Anne-Sophie on my second night. He didn’t speak English and we both didn’t speak Spanish, but we managed to enjoy our meal together. He later became Whiskey Paco when he bought a few of us some rather large shots of whiskey that we enjoyed together after a meal. Anyway, Blair decided to grab Paco so he could walk with us to Santiago. I was really happy to be walking with people who had been there for me since the early days.
As this part of the walk wasn’t new to me scenery wise, it was a new experience based on the company. In this last stretch you walk through beautiful eucalyptus forests and the walk around part of the Santiago airport. Today the path was packed full of pilgrims. We’d heard there was some sort of celebration day in regard to St. James, so I suspect that many of the Spanish pilgrims we passed had planned to finish their Camino on this day. We also learned that because of the day, the Botafumeiro would be swinging filled with its incense at the mass in the cathedral. This isn’t always a guarantee as normally someone or a group has to pay 500 euros to arrange for it to be part of the mass. I’ve gotten to experience it twice before and it’s well worth it to see.
We only took one break on the walk in to Santiago. We were all anxious to get to the zero mark outside the cathedral.
Arriving at the cathedral is always a special moment. You try or don’t try to hold back tears. You know a journey has come to an end and you know you’ve accomplished something special. It was neat to see our friend Tauri when we arrived in the square. We took our pictures and sat on the ground for a few moments to soak it all in.
As I’ve mentioned, this Camino didn’t go without challenges that tested me. It’s not supposed to be easy, but at times I felt lonely and defeated. This was a harder Camino to make connections on with fellow pilgrims – until it wasn’t. I feel like the last two days of walking and now the day and a half I’ve spent in Santiago with my Camino friends/family have been so incredibly special. I think part of what solidified those feelings and the closeness was the transition from us walking the Primitivo to joining the French route. We had a common bond that linked us among the hundreds/thousands of other pilgrims. We experienced the same mountains, the same weather, the same villages and albergues. Sure, I had made friends since day one – but the bonds were real and irreplaceable after the last few days of the walk.
Even with the challenges physically and mentally, I will look back at this experience with fond memories. I may not know the impact right away, but I know this will help define me in a positive way going forward.
I hope that I can cross paths with these folks that have made this journey as special as it has been. Yesterday and today I’ve sat at tables on the end of the Camino path to watch incoming pilgrims or in restaurants and have shared stories and laughs with some amazing people from all over the world. I know our friendship is something that is replicated on a daily basis on every Camino path. Our today’s stories and laughs shared will belong to the next group that arrives in Santiago tomorrow. My story can be every pilgrim’s story. One of courage, growth and friendship.
I leave tomorrow and already I’ve had thoughts of when I can try to be here again.
Adventure Girl Annie 