Day 18 – Moratinos to Bercianos del Real Camino

19.5 km – 12.1 miles

6:45am to 12:00pm walking time

0-ish elevation gain

When it rains it pours. It didn’t actually rain today (though it’s supposed to this evening), but the hits keep coming for me on this walk. I had a horrible night last night with food poisoning symptoms. I got up exhausted since I barely slept. I know the rumors are going around that the water might be bad along the section of the Camino. Whether it’s that or a flu bug going around, it’s hit a ton of pilgrims hard yesterday and today. Can’t really pinpoint a common place where the random variety of pilgrims I know of that got sick and I’ve mostly been in private rooms lately, so that’s why we think maybe the water got many of us. Either way, I’m pretty miserable today.

I had plans of going 26-28km today to the next town after this one. I almost stopped and stayed at Sahagún, but I couldn’t find any open hostels or hotels. I decided to keep walking to the next town because at least if I got there, I’d be able to break the 2 days into León into two shorter days. I also considered just getting a bus or train to León and skipping the next two days of the Camino. But I’m too stubborn and I want to walk all 500 miles.

This was part of my afternoon hydration plan since I haven’t eaten anything at all today. I figured the beer could try to help kill the germs. Lots of electrolytes and water. I picked up a bocadillo, but purposefully waited until I was back at my hostel room to eat it. So I’ll attempt that after this.

The day was shorter (unfortunately) and also pretty easy going. I walked to Sahagún by myself, but just outside of there Ben from the US and Liam from London joined me and we walked together to Bercianos. We had some great conversation along the way, so I really appreciated the company. I took a break with them and then they went on to the town I had planned to go to.

These sculptures mark the halfway point of the Camino just outside of Sahagún, though my calculations put the middle somewhere yesterday.
A mural of the four main characters in The Way.

I’m in yet another sleepy town tonight outside the bars and albergues (even two of those are closed today). After showering and getting my laundry done I headed back to the albergue as you enter town because it had good looking bocadillos and I figured that would be something mellow to try with my stomach. While there I ran into Chris and Ken from Florida and Wayne from Canada and we sat down together while they had lunch and had some nice conversation. This has been a better day of avoiding loneliness, but I’d love to be feeling better to spend dinner with them as well. I’ll be trying to sleep super early.

Anyway, really hoping I feel better tomorrow. This bug or food poisoning is something pretty awful.

5 thoughts on “Day 18 – Moratinos to Bercianos del Real Camino

  1. I can’t give too many hearts to that “The Way” movie mural! And it seems so unnatural to me that you are having to walk alone so often. If I were you, I’d do like Joost, and just glom onto someone you like and who happens to be walking your pace!-)

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    • Oh I’ve definitely been inviting myself to tables or inviting others. There’s a regular group of friends that I see, but still not a family forming. Guessing those on my same timeline from León to Santiago will continue to become better friends and hopefully more opportunity to walk together. There will also be a “fresh new class” joining in Leòn, so who knows what that will bring.

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  2. Sad to hear that you are now being Tested with a Bug- Flu or water bourne❣️ You ARE DETERMINED❣️ And you still Produced some INCREDIBLE Photos❣️ Hope you feel better soon❣️♥️❣️

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  3. You’re probably right about the water. I don’t think I’d travel like you are without a water filter or using bottled water, it’s like a mantra here when in continental Europe – don’t drink the water! Hope you’re feeling a lot better tomorrow 🤞

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