I left my nice albergue (pictured above) later than I had planned on today. It felt nice just taking my time this morning, especially knowing today was about the same distance as yesterday. I also decided that I’m going to spring for hotels sprinkled throughout this walk and I got one in Pamplona for tonight. I’ll mostly stay in albergues, but every now and then it’s nice to have your own room, your own shower, and no one else snoring or turning lights on and off at random times.
Leaving early meant not getting to see much of sunrise and also meant it warmed up a bit quicker. Luckily there was a nice breeze today. Breaks came a little fewer than I anticipated, so my first break was about 9km into the walk. This is where I introduced an Australian to amazingness of Aquarius – a really good electrolyte drink that I fell in love with in Japan. It’s the perfect thirst quencher on the Camino.
Usually approaching a bigger city means you see a bit more of the industrial parts as you approach the city. There was a bit of that today, but then there were some nice sections as well. My favorite part was walking through the woods alongside a small river. Pamplona is a nice city to visit so it was also fun once I hit the edge of the city.
I’m currently waiting on some spaghetti bolognese while sitting in the main plaza of Pamplona. This plaza is just a block off from the famous running of the bulls route. I’ll do some exploring around Pamplona after eating my late lunch. I also have a plan to get a drink with Hemingway at Cafe Iruña later – a famous bar because he used to drink there.
A shorter day today. But as I’ve learned on past Caminos, the shorter days can sometimes feel longer than the longer days. Though I’d say only parts of today felt longer. I haven’t been doing quite the research that I have in the past on what the next day will bring. I made the mistake of only quickly looking at a chart that showed fairly low elevation gain (mostly losses) for today – but that chart was in meters, and my brain wanted to think in feet. My legs, in their soreness from yesterday, certainly wanted to think in feet too! I felt every one of those meters today.
The famous sign when you’re still nearly 800km out from Santiago.
Walking this late in the summer means shorter days – so starting in the dark. It was the absolute perfect temperature when I left Roncesvalles today. A nice easy walk through a beautiful forest. The sun started to rise when I got to some openings with cattle fields. Through some bushes I could see a mother cow and her brand new baby cow – guessing it was born over night. It was so cute! Wish mama wasn’t keeping the baby cow so hidden so I could have gotten some photos.
This little one tried to play hide and seek with me. I won.
Today was back to the normal Camino style day. Instead of just climbing high mountains and limited resources, there were plenty of cute towns and bars or cafes to stop at. I made three stops today. I definitely felt dehydrated from yesterday so I needed those stops for hydration. Why drink boring water from your own water bottle when you can sit down for a few minutes for Coke Zero, Aquarius (electrolyte drink) or a beer?
While I’ve exchanged quick pleasantries with many folks, I’ve only had conversations with a handful of pilgrims so far. Two were from the US (including one from Idaho) and a few from Korea. The thing I always find is that the smiles and quick “hola” or “Buen Camino” you exchange with the same folks multiple times will eventually become so familiar that you find you are just new friends. It’s such a welcoming environment. Language might be a barrier sometimes, but usually not speaking a common language changes anything. I think that’s something that keeps bringing me back to the Camino. While politics these days has become so divisive and some issues that shouldn’t become political have become political, it’s been harder to find the kindness in strangers. It’s been harder to find common ground with those you may not agree with. But that kindness and common ground still lives on the Camino.
As I’m sitting at a cafe with a beer to write this, and I’m getting to overhear a group pilgrims talking about the differences of things like the metric vs imperial system, as the group seems to come from Ireland, Canada, the US and Germany. They seem to be a group of guys that have started finding a common bond over the past couple days and they’re spending time sharing with and listening to each other with all the differences they may have. I love seeing this, because this is the Camino.
Zubiri is a small town, with a river you cross to get into town. I found an albergue right next to the bridge where I’m only sharing a room with three others. There’s a view of the river from my room, so no complaints there. Tomorrow will be a slightly shorter day to Pamplona. Last Camino Frances I only walked through Pamplona and didn’t stay there. Just like I didn’t stay in Zubiri last time either. One goal I have this Camino is to try to stay in some different cities or towns. Since the path isn’t new to me, I want to try to stay in at least a few different places to help change it up.
Also the best thing about having a river just outside my albergue, means my feet get the royal treatment of recovery!
Today was hard, but absolutely beautiful so it was worth every grueling step. It’s just like I remember from the first time around. The uphills seem to never stop appearing around every corner. Last time I had trained well for the Camino, and it was hard then.
This day on the Frances is one of the best for views. Don’t get me wrong, the stunning views will continue, but the Pyrenees are down right magical to walk through.
Your path often gets crossed by cows, sheep and horses. I saw all three crossing the road in front of me. The horses being my favorite. Please don’t tell that to all the cows I fell in love with on the Primitivo. 😉 Twice, horses took off running at full speed in front of me. And there were many cute baby horses.
Didn’t have the heart to tell her she was going the wrong way on the Camino. 😂
The last horse pictured seemed to enjoy getting pets from pilgrims.
There’s only two businesses to stop at along this part of the Camino. The refuge at Orrison and then a food truck. So it’s not a typical Camino day with first breakfast, second breakfast, lunch and then a last “you’re almost there but need a break” stop. This meant I carried extra water with me. So my pack was a bit heavier than I prefer. Just what one needs when doing the biggest climb. 😃
Can’t beat the views for the stops though.
Anyway, back to the beauty of this day…
There’s not much in Roncesvalles. But I booked my bed reservation with dinner so at 7, I’ll head to one of the two restaurants in town for my pilgrims meal. For now I’m just enjoying a well deserved beer, Coke and some much needed salty chips.
Tomorrow should be a much easier day, aside from soreness from today’s walk. Not to mention having to emotionally get over getting stuck on a top bunk tonight. It’s all just part of the Camino!
This morning started way earlier than I probably needed it to, but that just meant I had plenty of time to explore the very small terminal I flew out of in Paris. The flight was quick and easy, with limited views due to clouds. But flying into Biarritz reminded me that I’d like to actually visit Biarritz sometime.
The drive to Saint Jean Pied de Port
I was the only pilgrim in the shuttle today so that meant I got to pay quite a bit for that ride. It’s only 19 euros per person if the shuttle is full. Luckily my hotel room was ready when I arrived in St. Jean. It’s an adorable studio apartment above a fantastic smelling Italian restaurant. Unfortunately I couldn’t wait on dinner for it to reopen so I’ve settled into a place for steak and fries.
I’ve spent all afternoon wandering and geocaching around St. Jean. It’s just as adorable as I remembered it. I got lucky to arrive today in that there’s a big town festival going on and that includes bands that travel around the city playing basque region music along with some popular hits you might hear your high school marching band play. They seem to be stopping for beers at various bars throughout the day. I’m surprised they’re still able to play so well. Here’s dinner and the band currently playing at the restaurant I’m at…
Another band playing near the church and clock tower in St. Jean.
It’s been enjoyable to watch these bands perform as I’ve wandered through town today. You don’t know what you might hear around the next corner. I know my dad will be thrilled to know each one has at least one tuba or sousaphone as part of the ensemble.
Not only did I find a business with my name on it, I also found pizza and baguette vending machines! Not surprisingly, the pizza machine seemed quite popular. 🍕
Tomorrow will be a tough day with a lot of uphill, but with the weather forecast, I should have some stunning views. With sunrise a bit later now, I’ll likely be leaving St. Jean in the dark. But as I’ve seen pilgrims all over this town, I know I won’t be on The Way alone. I was a bit bummed that the albergue I stayed at here last time is closed on Sundays. Otherwise I know I would be starting tomorrow already knowing a handful of pilgrims.
Even if I’m not fully trained for tomorrow, I’m ready to get started!
Writing this from the train that will take me to my plane, and it means my journey is under way! I have a flight to Paris, after a transfer in Dublin. I’ll stay tomorrow evening near the airport in Paris and early Sunday take off for Biarritz. A shuttle service will pick me up and take me to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port from there. If all goes well, I’ll start walking on Monday.
I always get worried about travel days – especially since I’ve had a Camino flight canceled once before. But luckily I have a built in buffer day where I can adjust if needed. That’s not a luxury I’ve usually had in the past.
No I won’t be wearing flip flops for the whole walk. 😃
Despite the worry of travel working out the way I’ve booked it, I am so excited to spend the next five weeks walking. It’s a comfortable and happy place for me. Since I’m not doing any major exploring tomorrow, my next post will be on Sunday. I’ll plan to post every day of the walk after that. Thank you to everyone for your encouragement and support, and welcome along on my journey!
The Road goes ever on and on, Down from the door where it began. Now far ahead the Road has gone, And I must follow, if I can, Pursuing it with eager feet, Until it joins some larger way Where many paths and errands meet. And whither then? I cannot say.
Things have not slowed down, so I’ve had to rush things together in the middle of a typical busy summertime. I don’t love that, and my anxiety definitely doesn’t love that. But things are coming together. I think I’ve officially finished packing. Sure, things might change in small ways before I fly out, but I could leave right now and have everything I need.
All of this will fit in my pack, or I’ll be wearing it.
The list…
REI 40 liter backpack
REI backpack rain cover
Brooks Divide trail runner shoes
Havaiana Flip flops
Black Diamond trekking poles
Camelbak water bottle
Platypus foldable water bottle
Costco down throw blanket
Lightweight blow up pillow (splurge item)
REI rain jacket
Lightweight hoody jacket
2 pairs of yoga pants
1 pair of hiking shorts
1 skirt
3 pairs of Darn Tough wool running socks
2 quick dry shirts
1 quick dry long sleeve shirt
1 tank top
Ball cap
Lightweight poncho
3-4 pairs of undies
Backpacking quick dry towel
Toiletries including mini shampoo, toothpaste, deodorant, etc.
Fingernail clippers
Fingernail polish (splurge item)
A few bandaids
Advil, Advil PM, Vitamins
Mini toilet paper roll
Two needles with thread
One safety pin
Extra chapstick
Mini sunscreen/face lotion
iPhone
Garmin watch
Small charger for iPhone
Charging cables for iPhone, Garmin watch and battery charger
2 International adapter plugs
USB charger plug with two USB ports (charge two things at once)
Camino Frances guidebook
Camino Credencial
Small carabiner to hang things from backpack
Mini roll of duct tape
Clothes line with clips for drying clothes
1-2 Reusable shopping bags (for storing clothes)
2 organization compartments to separate belongings in pack
Cotopaxi fanny pack
Small wallet for credit cards/ID
Passport
Buff scarf
Sounders FC Scarf (splurge item)
Snacks and energy chews to get me started
Scallop shell
One of the new items I picked up from a local sock shop the other day is two new pairs of socks. That’s one thing I buy new every time. There’s something that feels so great about putting on a new pair of socks. And Darn Tough has been a darn good brand for me. Smartwool is also great, but this time I’ll only have Darn Tough socks with me.
New socks and new credencial.
About a week before the new socks arrived, my new credencial arrived. Looking forward to putting some new memories down via stamps in that when I start walking.
My pack this time will be the same REI pack I used on the Primitivo last year. It’s a bit bigger than most would need, but it’s perfect and very comfortable for me. I also love the bright colors I wear between the pack and my fanny pack.
It’s one week out from starting my walk today. I know I’m not in the best shape for this one, but like my dad said when I left for my first walk, was just to put one foot in front of the other. And that’s just what I’ll do.
Adventure Girl Annie 